I didn't know what people meant by a "surf addiction". Now, I do. Feeling the power of the wave, of the ocean, pushing you towards the beach is just fascinating. Observing how waves arrive linearly and one by one at the coast, how the water banks up to wonder- and powerful walls and then breaking into white foam is marvelous. Waiting for that wave, paddling, catching it, accomplishing the takeoff - which is very seldom when you are a beginner as we are..- and riding some meters, releases all the happiness hormones your body might have.
We visited the Tao Magic Glisse Surf School. Our first surf lessons were really cool. Every time, we started with bodysurfing - where we actually could feel the water's power at one's own figure. Then white water surfing and training the takeoff. Paddling out, surfing in, paddling out, surfing in and so on. This was how our class looked alike. The lessons took two hours and we were able to learn a lot then because of the small groups and the competent teachers (Fred and Doud were so friendly, helped us always and gave us good tips!). The surf lessons were at Hossegor's Plage Sud and two others (more northern) places (I don't remember the names). Our best lesson was when we started at 8.40 in the morning and drove to one of the upper spots of Hossegor. Everything was sleepy and calm. The water was unusually fresh. And the atlantic was so smooth with many (small-middle) waves.
On our last day surfing, the waves became really big. You could just see water.. A wall of water which was going hurtling towards you. This day, I felt the power of the ocean even more. Sometimes you can be helpless in the water and be subject to the sea. It was an experience for me to feel how things just can happen. It let my respect towards the ocean grow. That's a surfer's life (like people used to say then).
Our trip to Hossegor was super satisfying and really, really great. We flew back home and everything was alright. Almost everything.. We were waiting for our luggage to arrive but nothing came, except a man from the airport asking us why we were still waiting, all the baggages have been supplied. We stood there slack-jawed. Our baggage was lost and nobody could tell us where and why it was lost.
I'm glad that the following day, we were able to collect our baggage at the airport (they still did not know why it was not in our plane). My trip continued the same day towards Lago Maggiore (Italy) with my family. Cheers and carpe diem!